:: Peranakan Culture ::


A shophouse that reflects on the typical Peranakan architecture.

:: Peranakan History ::

The Peranakans are Straits Born Chinese. Babas is a term that refers to the men and Nyonyas refers to the ladies. History has it that a Chinese princess, Hang Li Poh, arrived in Malacca to be married to the Sultan. The intermarriage between the Chinese and the local Malays created a sub-ethinic group known as the Peranakans. This resulted in a fusion of culture which is rich in history and unique to Malaysia.

From Malacca, the Peranakan community had migrated to neighbouring places such as Penang and Singapore.

Traditionally, the Nyonyas spent most of their time at home, learning domestic arts from their elders. Thus, this results in a delicious Peranakan cuisine and costumes that involves hours of beadwork and embroidery.
:: Nyonya Kebaya ::

For some time, I wanted to sew a costume for my dolls that it uniquely Malaysian, something that originates from this part of Asia.

The answer to this is a Nyonya Kebaya, which is the charming and exquisite costume of the Nyonyas.

The early Nyonya Kebaya uses expensive lace trimmings. Later, embriodery replaces lace and allows for varied designs. The Nyonya Kebaya is so difficult to embroider that it would take a lifetime for an actual kebaya seamstress to be a master.

A Nyonya Kebaya blouse is worn with a Batik Sarong bottom, which is influence by the Malays. Nyonyas usually ties the Batik Sarong in the front. The mixing and matching of the Kebaya blouse and the Batik Sarong reflects on the aesthetic tastes of the wearer.

Besides, the Nyonya Kebaya is worn with brooches known as the Kerosang. The Kerosang usually comes in a set of three and is used to fasten the Kebaya blouse.

To complete the wear, the Nyonyas slipped on dainty beaded slippers known as the Kasut Kodok which is literally toad shoes

Almond (Blythe doll) is wearing a Nyonya Kebaya. The background is ceramic tiles that are usually found on the exterior of the Peranakan shophouses in Malacca. The tiles were once imported by the Dutch traders.
> Click on picture to enlarge

:: Kebaya Renda - the early Kebaya ::

Around the 1920s, the Nyonyas dressed in an early form of Kebaya known as the Kebaya Renda. Instead of embroidery, lace is sewn around the edges of the kebaya top.

The fusion of lace into this Asian costume is due to trade and the rich influence of the European culture in Malacca at that time.

*Disclaimer: Photo print of Kebaya Renda placed behind Almond (doll) is from the book, The Nyonya Kebaya. It is only used as a reference for the handmade Blythe doll costume. The photo is taken during the 1920s, depicting a Nyonya lady in a Kebya Renda
> Click on picture to enlarge

Lantern at the entrance ...
The entrance of a Malaccan shophouse
> Click on picture to enlarge
Sitting at the window sill on an airwell
> Click on picture to enlarge
:: Designing the Nyonya Kebaya ::

There were various limitations when I designed the Kebaya for Blythes. First of all, the Kebaya cutting is unlike most shirts. Thus, I could not reference the cutting from elsewhere. To get an exact cutting, I had to borrow a actual Kebaya top from my best friend, and measure the cutting from there.

Secondly, the Nyonya Kebaya is only complete with various crucial accessories like the Kerosang (brooches) and the Kasut Kodok (beaded slip-ons). This started a hunt for suitable miniatures such as beads with shapes that look like the Kerosangs.

Afterwhich, I had to make the beaded slip-ons. The beads used are the smallest that I can find in this market. To create designs for the shoes, I had to draw the motifs in dots on paper first. Beads used on the Kasut Kodok have to be of a contrast colour or else the shape cannot be seen.

For the bags, I added on a splash of gold and silver to reflect on the exquisiteness of the Nyonya Kebaya.

The pictures below will show how I fare in in making the replica of the Nyonya Kebaya for Blythes. :D
Left:
A human-size Kasut Kodok. This pic was taken in an antique shop in Malacca.

Right:
The Kasut Kodok hand made by me. The motif is of a flower with leaves on both sides.

Left:
The real kerosang. This photo is not taken by me, it is scanned from the book, The Nyonya Kebaya. Picture is used only for reference.

Right:
The improvised Kerosang. There are two types of Kerosang. One is called the Kerosang Serong which consist of a bigger top piece and two other smaller pieces.

The second type is called the Kerosang Rantai which consist of three identical pieces connected to each other by chains.

{ Black & White photos can be viewed here > A Peranakan Setting }

:: LIKE THE OUTFIT? ::
Let me know if u are interested by joining Dollsville Shop's Mailing List!
You will be informed when new Blythe Nyonya Kebayas are launched.
Customers can also preorder by emailing me: yokokonda@hotmail.com

All works are Copyright 2004© jooli.com. Please seek permission for use.

:: Good References on Peranakan Culture ::

BOOKS
- Datin Seri Endon Mahmood (2002), The Nyonya Kebaya, The Writer's Publishing House, Malaysia

LINKS
- 'The Peranakan Association', http://www.peranakan.org.sg,
( Accessed 21st December 2004)
- 'Straits Born Chinese: The Peranakan Story', http://www.thingsasian.com/goto_article/article.1416.html, 11th March 2003, (Accessed 21st December 2004)
- 'The Baba Nyonya Culture', http://www.math.lsa.umich.edu/~csylvia/food/recipe.htm,
(Accessed 14th January 2005)
- 'The Opulent Nyonya Kebaya', http://www.tourismpenang.gov.my/article.cfm?id=70, (Accessed 14th January 2005)

Copyright 2004© jooli.com